The Great Wall

Climbing the Great Wall

Imagine the Warring States period of China where a system of territories continually fought for dominance. Most cities and states during this period had walls built around them to afford some protection from the constant invasions. Finally, the Qin (say, “Chin”) dynasty was founded and the states were united into China. The individual walls were joined together as the new China now focused on trying to keep out the marauding Mongol hordes and various other Eurasian bad guys. Thus, the Great Wall of China is born.

Don & Genghis Khan
two peas in a pod

We are at our breakfast buffet early today so we can hit the road and head to The Wall. I am feeling pretty crappy as I have a wicked head cold coupled with the constant throat irritation provided courtesy of the Beijing pollution. Now I notice that my stomach doesn’t feel quite right. We have been informed that under no circumstances are we to drink tap water. In fact, we are not even supposed to brush our teeth with it nor get any in our mouths when in the shower. I have been ever vigilant making sure I don’t even eat anything that may have been washed in tap water: no salad, no fruit or vegetables with edible skins. I start finishing my meals with a Pepto chaser, just in case.

Our breakfast buffet
Maybe I should lay off all the Asian stuff for a while?

Bottled water
Your best friend in China

We anticipate that it will be cold up on The Wall and we dress accordingly with heavy jackets, hats and gloves. Once again, it is a dreary, misty grey day. As we approach the exit for the Badaling section of The Wall we get our first glimpse of it up on the hills. It’s pretty cool even from the bus. Early Saturday morning makes for “light” traffic by Beijing standards. We arrive at the parking area and walk through to the entrance gates.

The approach to The Wall

Market area just before the access point. Always an opportunity to get your money.

We are standing on the entryway and it is already a mob scene. We head right, like the sheep that we are because it seems everyone else is headed in that direction. I turn around and glance at the left side which is significantly less populated and I say to Don, “Let’s go that way.” He studies the situation, as he is much less impulsive than myself and decrees, “I don’t know. It looks pretty steep that way.” I blow off his concerns and say, “What’s the worst that could happen? So we turn around.” It is done.

BAAA!

We start our climb on what turn out to be very high steps. We are ascending into history! I can see the Chinese army moving towards victory! I can hear the horse’s hooves as the Mongols approach! I need to remove my hat and gloves because I am sweating like a dumpling in hot soup! Holy shit, this thing is steep! Some of the staircase is actually more like a ladder because you are literally climbing vertically. People are sitting down & panting at every little flat area. If we don’t have a heart attack here we’ll never have one. We decide to keep climbing until we get to the highest area we can still see. My clogged sinuses and raw throat are not contributing to my oxygenation status sufficiently so I need a rest. We turn around to look and the view is magnificent.

Don at the pinnacle of our climb

We linger on the wall turning 360 degrees so we can capture every view. Our eyes meet and we laugh. We’re in China standing on The Great Wall. Who’d a thunk two kids from the Bronx would be here? Funny thing, there are two ladies in one of the other groups who live in . . . the Bronx! It really is a small world.

Going down is also no picnic.

We begin our descent and discover that it’s really no better heading down. The steps were not made for big Western feet so most of the time I have to sort of side step. Don’s feeling it in his knees. When we get back down to the market area we notice piles of old snow around some trees. I can’t imagine trying to climb if it’s icy.

Our next destination is the Ming tombs. This is the burial site for 13 emperors of the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644) and our last site to see in Beijing. The grounds where the tombs are located were carefully chosen according to Feng Shui. This is an important concept which we have been introduced to before when we have visited other sites. Feng Shui is a philosophy of creating harmony with your environment and is widely used to orient buildings or rooms within buildings. It helps you get your qi (say, “chi”) straight. I find the place very peaceful so the Feng Shui must be good.

The Ming Tombs

Don at the burial site
Ming Tombs

Up on the burial site
Ming Tombs

Our day is supposed to conclude with a special dinner treat. We are having a Beijing roast duck dinner (aka Peking Duck). A dish prepared since imperial times, this is a succulent duck sliced thin table-side with a super crisp skin. It is served with thin pancakes, scallions and a hoisin-like sauce. Yummy!
Unfortunately, we are greatly disappointed. This duck has NO SKIN! Skin is the essence of a good Peking duck. It is over done, dry and generally unsatisfactory. However, I will let you in on a secret. If you want delicious, authentic Peking duck go to the Peking Gourmet Inn in Falls Church, Virginia. You will not be disappointed.

Next: I get detained at the airport trying to fly to Xi’an

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