Bangkok was not the first capitol of Thailand. It was established after the fall of Ayutthaya due to its strategic significance on the mouth of the Chao Phraya river. Wat Pho was the main temple complex established by King Rama I in Bangkok. The city section that houses Wat Pho is known as the Old City. This is home to the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, the world-famous Thai Massage School, the largest collection of Buddha images in all of Thailand and the Ordination Hall where Buddhist ceremonies are conducted. It was our destination for the day.
Prior to seeing the golden Buddha, our tour guide told us of his own experience at Wat Pho. It is expected that all Thai Buddhist men become a monk at some point. Our guide decided to fulfill his obligation in his youth and came to be ordained at Wat Pho. He entered the monastic facilities and after 3 weeks of the strict life he was done. He returned home and this is more the norm than choosing to remain at the monastery.
We couldn’t help but notice how many cats there were all over the complex. They were everywhere just sleeping in the shade. Since Wat Pho houses the monastery they are well-fed by the monks. Each day the monks go out with their alms bowls and the people fill them with food and other offerings. Once the monks have fed themselves and anyone who is in their care they feed the living things in their immediate environment.
You may have noticed that in these photos I am dressed in a full-length skirt and a blouse that is covering my shoulders. No, I am not that modest and certainly not in 97 degree heat with 99% humidity! In order to enter temples you have to have your knees and shoulders covered. Our guide would inspect us in the morning and if your attire was not temple-worthy he sent you back to change if your desire was to enter the temple. It was also necessary to remove your shoes before entering so you would grab a plastic bag to carry your shoes in when you went inside.
Shoes in hand you line up to enter the temple.
The enormous reclining Buddha was originally found in another area of Siam (the former name for Thailand). It was covered in plaster and since it was so huge and unique the King wanted it moved to his new capitol city. While in transport, the nose cracked and a piece of the plaster fell off unveiling the gold beneath it. The statue is constructed of brick with a plaster exterior which was covered in gold leaf and then that was covered in plaster during the times when invasions were more common. The figure represents Buddha’s last incarnation and approaching entry into Nirvana. At over 150′ in length it is a most imposing and impressive site.
As if a massive gold Buddha wasn’t enough to look at, his feet are the most interesting part. They are inlaid with mother-of-pearl and are divided into 108 different panels. The panels have images like elephants, tigers, dancers, etc. carved into them and in the center of the soles there is a circle that represents a chakra (energy point).
Buddha toes
Around the periphery of the temple are 108 bronze bowls which people drop coins in to bring them good luck. The monks use this money to maintain the temple. It was pretty cool walking barefoot on the smooth, cool floors and despite the throngs of people when I stepped outside there wasn’t any dirt on the soles of my feet. It was an energizing experience and despite the big time jet lag I was feeling I felt refreshed. Until I went back out in the sun in my long schmata and black blouse.
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