If it’s Tuesday this must be… Xi’an? Wuhan? Jingzhou? Oh hell, I don’t know anymore! Once again we awaken to grey, misty skies and I wonder if the sun ever shines in China. Today we embark on another domestic Chinese flight headed to Wuhan, which is the capital of Hubei province located in central China. It is also the hometown of our guide, Christina.The uprising that finally overthrew the Chinese dynasty system originated in Wuhan.

I am not looking forward to today’s flight after my experiences in our last domestic Chinese airport so I decide to be more proactive. I remove my glasses and decide to adopt the facial expression seen in my passport photo. This seems to work as I am allowed to proceed through the security checks without assault. The flight is uneventful and we arrive in Wuhan to hop on the bus that will drive us through a tour of the city. Then we will head to Jingzhou to board our cruise ship.
As details are now starting to get fuzzy, I will ask for assistance from any of my Bus #2 buddies: did we have lunch at the Buddhist restaurant in Wuhan? I believe we had lunch there before we headed on to Jingzhou but I may be mistaken. At this point I was taking DayQuil tablets to keep my cold symptoms at bay so my recollections may be a bit off. If someone can verify or refute this, please leave a comment at the end of this post.

After lunch it’s back on the bus for our ride to Jingzhou. In case you think our bus rides are just boring treks I’ll reassure you that usually they are information sessions. Our guides take these opportunities to fill us in on the local history and background stories of the places we are visiting. We have beer and water available for purchase in coolers. On this journey we get a rare treat. We stop at a local service area for a bathroom break and get to visit a Chinese convenience store.

We are like kids in a Chinese candy store and we come out with some interesting finds. We pass them around the bus and that provides more entertainment. We are an easily amused lot. Eventually, we end up in the ancient city of Jingzhou. Our ship, the Sinorama Diamond, is anchored here. We get on board and actually have a little downtime. This will be our floating home for the next 6 days. Tomorrow morning we have an excursion to explore the ancient city wall and the Jingzhou museum. We then shove off and partake in the Captain’s Welcome party at night. The shipboard accommodations ain’t half bad.

We have our first really good night’s sleep. In the hotels the room temperature was sweltering as the government mandates when the heat goes on and you can’t individually regulate it. We could turn it down and open windows but with my head cold I was constantly clogged because of the forced air heat. We have a nice breeze blowing off the water. I am comfortable. ZZZZZZZ
Jingzhou is located on the Yangtze River and consequently it has been a strategic transportation and distribution center for over 6,000 years. It’s city wall is one of the best maintained and was rebuilt in 1696. It is our destination today and when we climb it we are rewarded with a beautiful view of both the water and residential areas.

As with the Great Wall, sticky rice was used to create a binding substance that served as the mortar for the stones of the wall. I find a vendor selling Chinese swords that elongate and contract when you shake them and decide that these would be appreciated gifts for my grandsons. I attempt to strike a deal for the bundle of 3 but this vendor won’t negotiate. (This was the only street vendor in China that did not attempt to barter with me. I left him and went to the base of the wall and found another vendor who was more than willing to seal the deal. I mastered 3 phrases in Chinese: 1. “Very,very good” 2. “I love you” & 3. “It costs too much” The first 2 are attributed to my guide, Christina and the last courtesy of my Aunt Nancy who studied Mandarin for 5 years and that is the only phrase she can say.)
Our next stop is the Jingzhou Museum. The grounds are beautiful.(Good Feng Shui!) The museum houses the earliest and most complete mummified remains of a human man found in China. He is called the red mummy because his color was derived from the minerals used in his embalming process. He is amazing and is more than 2,000 years old. He died in his 60s from a parasitic infection. I stare at him a long time.

There is also a series of large chime bells that were unearthed as well as a cool exhibit showcasing ancient Chinese embroidery with silk and jade plates and tableware. Don and I are the only Westerners pouring over the tableware exhibit and the Chinese guard tries to explain that we are looking at a depiction of a duck. He speaks no English and we appreciate his efforts as I am sure he is appreciative of our interest in his exhibits. When we have had individual encounters with the Chinese people (who were NOT trying to sell us something) this is pretty much how it went.

We get back to the ship and begin our preparations for the Captain’s Welcome Party. This is a dressy affair which ceremoniously presents our captain and crew, providing an opportunity for cocktails and dancing before dinner. It is unbearably hot during the event and I have to step out onto the deck on numerous occasions just to keep from passing out in my sequined finery. Note to self: wear less clothing at the next formal dinner.

Next: We visit the Three Gorges

It is Sunday and we are departing Beijing to fly a domestic Chinese flight to the city of Xi’an, home of the terra cotta army. Two days ago there were horrific terrorist attacks in Paris. We were able to follow the news via CNN, BBC & and an English-speaking Asian news network on cable TV in the hotel. In case you are unaware, there is a lot of censoring that goes on in China. There is NO official access to social networks like Facebook, Instagram & Twitter. There is no Google nor gmail. In fact, I had to set up a new email account on Yahoo to keep in touch with my family because it’s the only email that China consistently allows to operate. It only let me include 1 photo per email.

We were concerned but not frightened to fly on the domestic airline. Terrorism is dealt with in a different way in China. See for yourself. Click the hyperlink below.

Reuters

Our guide told us we would have to leave with extra time because heightened security was expected at the airport. Domestic flights in China have different criteria than U.S. domestic flights. For example: on U.S. domestics you must put your 3oz liquids in a baggie in your carry-on. In China all liquids must be in a check-in bag .China also has a HUGE problem with your lithium batteries. All items with these batteries must be in your carry-on and sent through the security scanner separately from the rest of your stuff. They especially dislike power packs. Don & I sort our respective stuff appropriately and proceed to the checkpoint.
I should now mention that my passport photo was taken several years ago. In the picture I have long, brown hair and am not wearing glasses. This seems to present a problem for the security person. (‘Cause we all look alike, right?) She holds up my passport and scrutinizes the picture, then my face. She speaks to the security agent beside her who glances at the photo and shrugs. Remote communications ensue and I am pulled from the line and held to the side. Don, who has sailed through the check, is now laughing hysterically and waving good-bye to me. A supervisor of some sort arrives and she looks at me, then the photo. I smile weakly attempting to look like a somewhat harmless little old lady (little do they know!). She nods, hands me back my passport and allows me to proceed. Now I can send my stuff through the scanner. Once my stuff comes through I am once again removed from the line and hurried to another area. (Now I am getting nervous. Before I was just amused.) At a desk sits an inspector who pulls out my 2 portable chargers (you know, the ones you use to recharge your cell phone or tablet). She looks at my Motorola and says, “This one O.K.” Then she looks at the cheap one my job gave me for an employee appreciation gift and decrees, “This one no good.” She confiscates it then returns my Motorola one and I am escorted back and through the security checkpoint. Don is waiting, smiling and states, “And everyone thought I would be the one to get detained!” I respond with 2 choice words and we proceed to the plane.
The flight is uneventful and we eventually arrive at our hotel. We enter our room and I am overwhelmed by the stench of cigarette smoke. Since I am still suffering with the head cold and the pollution of Beijing I inform Don that the room is unacceptable to me. He mutters something about “enemies of the state shouldn’t be so picky” and heads back to the lobby to request a change. He returns and tells me the desk said all the rooms are none smoking but the Chinese don’t care and do it anyway. The second room is stench free.

The next day we have a lot on our agenda. We are going to the excavation site, having a special dumpling banquet for dinner then capping off the evening with a show featuring dances from the Tang dynasty.

In 1974 four farmers were digging a well and one of them unearthed a broken, clay head. One of the farmers wrapped it up and brought it home thinking it was an old Buddha statue. Since it was a small, rural village word soon spread about the head. Some of the villagers were upset thinking that the farmers would bring bad luck by disturbing the Buddha. Eventually, frightened by the potential consequences, the farmer brought the statue to the local government authorities. Chinese archaeologists came to investigate and it lead to the excavation of the terra cotta army which is considered the archaeological find of the century.

I cannot adequately describe to you the magnificence of actually seeing these silent sentinels. They have stood guard for 2200 years over the underworld realm of the first emperor of China. Don and I frantically start taking photos. We have a finite amount of time to visit the 3 pits and the museum that houses the bronze chariot and horses that were also found on site. These are all in separate buildings spread around the complex. We tear ourselves away from this first and largest pit to explore the other excavations. When we complete all we have about 30 minutes remaining before we have to rejoin our group. We return to the first pit and spend that last half hour marveling at the work that has been done restoring this treasure which was mostly in pieces when found. They are using clay they mine from the actual original site of procurement which is a nearby mountain. To help fund the project there is a workshop that produces replicas in all sizes and types which you can purchase and have shipped home. They will even fashion one with your own head on it.

So, how were these four farmers rewarded for making the archaeological discovery that is called the eighth wonder of the world? Well, first of all they were “relocated” from their family farms. Remember, the government owns all the land and they had some digging to do! Each of the farmers were given 3 food coupons which they each exchanged for what they must have considered the ultimate reward: a bowl of noodles with pork sauce. Amply rewarded (by Chinese government standards) they were relegated back to the obscurity from whence they originated until President Bill Clinton decided he wanted to visit the terra cotta army in 1998. Bill also wanted to meet the guys who made all this possible. This sent the Chinese government scrambling because they had no idea where the fab four were after relocation. Finally, they rounded them up and tried to make them into diplomatic emissaries: i.e. they cleaned them up and tried to teach them a few words of English. They rehearsed them to say, “How are you?” but when the time came to meet Bill they were so frightened and overwhelmed by the Secret Service security detail that instead they said, “Who are you?” Mr. Clinton didn’t miss a beat and responded, “I’m Hillary’s husband.” After that historic meeting the government gave the farmers jobs at the site being available to sign books and take photos with visitors. Today, only one farmer is still alive and is too frail to go the the site anymore. He signs books at home and they are for sale in the museum gift shop. I’m betting he doesn’t get any commission.

It’s now 5:00 p.m. and the complex is closing for the day. We board Bus Number 2 and head back to the downtown area of Xi’an for dinner. Our local guide has been extolling the famous local dumplings but after our disappointing Beijing duck dinner I hold my enthusiasm in reserve. Xi’an is known for their tender dumplings which are delicately filled and shaped into the animals or vegetables that provide their fillings. We are not disappointed here! These things are amazing and we are served tray after tray of delectable dumplings that look like cute little fish, chickens and pig snouts (trust me, it was cute). We are stuffed and ready for our entertainment.

We file into the already crowded theater and by the time the performance starts the room resembles a tetris puzzle. Every available square meter of surface is occupied with chairs and tables facing directions that, unless you are a Chinese contortionist, provide an obstructed view. I realize there are no “maximum occupancy” signs and all the exits are obstructed by patrons. I ask our guide, Christina, if China has fire codes and she blankly looks at me. I plan my escape route which will entail me jumping on top of my table and leaping table to table until I reach the doorway at which time I will go all Chinese on your ass!

The Tang Dynasty show is decidedly better than the Beijing Opera. The live classical Chinese orchestra has some amazing soloists who play traditional instruments and one musician has an uncanny whistling ability. There are 8 different dance sets with stunning costumes, particularly the ones with the long, ribbon sleeves. These sleeves create an ethereal effect, although they remind me of tongues of fire and now I am hoarding the bottled water that was provided to us just in case.
We escape unscathed at the conclusion of the performance and return safely to our room.

Next: We fly to Wuhan then visit the city of Jingzhou

 

Imagine the Warring States period of China where a system of territories continually fought for dominance. Most cities and states during this period had walls built around them to afford some protection from the constant invasions. Finally, the Qin (say, “Chin”) dynasty was founded and the states were united into China. The individual walls were joined together as the new China now focused on trying to keep out the marauding Mongol hordes and various other Eurasian bad guys. Thus, the Great Wall of China is born.

We are at our breakfast buffet early today so we can hit the road and head to The Wall. I am feeling pretty crappy as I have a wicked head cold coupled with the constant throat irritation provided courtesy of the Beijing pollution. Now I notice that my stomach doesn’t feel quite right. We have been informed that under no circumstances are we to drink tap water. In fact, we are not even supposed to brush our teeth with it nor get any in our mouths when in the shower. I have been ever vigilant making sure I don’t even eat anything that may have been washed in tap water: no salad, no fruit or vegetables with edible skins. I start finishing my meals with a Pepto chaser, just in case.

We anticipate that it will be cold up on The Wall and we dress accordingly with heavy jackets, hats and gloves. Once again, it is a dreary, misty grey day. As we approach the exit for the Badaling section of The Wall we get our first glimpse of it up on the hills. It’s pretty cool even from the bus. Early Saturday morning makes for “light” traffic by Beijing standards. We arrive at the parking area and walk through to the entrance gates.

We are standing on the entryway and it is already a mob scene. We head right, like the sheep that we are because it seems everyone else is headed in that direction. I turn around and glance at the left side which is significantly less populated and I say to Don, “Let’s go that way.” He studies the situation, as he is much less impulsive than myself and decrees, “I don’t know. It looks pretty steep that way.” I blow off his concerns and say, “What’s the worst that could happen? So we turn around.” It is done.

We start our climb on what turn out to be very high steps. We are ascending into history! I can see the Chinese army moving towards victory! I can hear the horse’s hooves as the Mongols approach! I need to remove my hat and gloves because I am sweating like a dumpling in hot soup! Holy shit, this thing is steep! Some of the staircase is actually more like a ladder because you are literally climbing vertically. People are sitting down & panting at every little flat area. If we don’t have a heart attack here we’ll never have one. We decide to keep climbing until we get to the highest area we can still see. My clogged sinuses and raw throat are not contributing to my oxygenation status sufficiently so I need a rest. We turn around to look and the view is magnificent.

We linger on the wall turning 360 degrees so we can capture every view. Our eyes meet and we laugh. We’re in China standing on The Great Wall. Who’d a thunk two kids from the Bronx would be here? Funny thing, there are two ladies in one of the other groups who live in . . . the Bronx! It really is a small world.

We begin our descent and discover that it’s really no better heading down. The steps were not made for big Western feet so most of the time I have to sort of side step. Don’s feeling it in his knees. When we get back down to the market area we notice piles of old snow around some trees. I can’t imagine trying to climb if it’s icy.

Our next destination is the Ming tombs. This is the burial site for 13 emperors of the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644) and our last site to see in Beijing. The grounds where the tombs are located were carefully chosen according to Feng Shui. This is an important concept which we have been introduced to before when we have visited other sites. Feng Shui is a philosophy of creating harmony with your environment and is widely used to orient buildings or rooms within buildings. It helps you get your qi (say, “chi”) straight. I find the place very peaceful so the Feng Shui must be good.

Our day is supposed to conclude with a special dinner treat. We are having a Beijing roast duck dinner (aka Peking Duck). A dish prepared since imperial times, this is a succulent duck sliced thin table-side with a super crisp skin. It is served with thin pancakes, scallions and a hoisin-like sauce. Yummy!
Unfortunately, we are greatly disappointed. This duck has NO SKIN! Skin is the essence of a good Peking duck. It is over done, dry and generally unsatisfactory. However, I will let you in on a secret. If you want delicious, authentic Peking duck go to the Peking Gourmet Inn in Falls Church, Virginia. You will not be disappointed.

Next: I get detained at the airport trying to fly to Xi’an

It is now around noon on our first full day of sightseeing. We have already covered more ground than the weeds on my 5 acres. Our next stop is the Hutong. In it’s most simplified explanation, a hutong is a series of narrow residential streets and alleys in the center of Beijing. The hutong is now a protected area as it shows the culture and traditional life of the city before the urbanization and infrastructure that represents modern Beijing was put in place. Some of the dwellings are several hundred years old and have been in families for generations. Our local guide for this part of the city is a young man who calls himself, “Tiger”. He is adorable and I want to take him home with me.

This is the type of sightseeing I love. I want to see what real, everyday life is for the people. Don’t get me wrong, I also love seeing the historical sights but this is where stuff gets real! We are going to have lunch at the home of one of the local residents. She has converted some of her living space into a restaurant. The rooms are set up like her regular dining room and we can see the communal kitchen where our meal is being prepared across the alley. Tiger translates for her and she tells us that her home which was previously owned and occupied by her single family was subdivided and shared by 3 other families after Chairman Mao took over in the 1940’s. It seems the Chairman only allotted so many square meters of living space per family and since the government of China now owned all the land they were required to have 3 more families move into their house. I think it was in the 1970’s or 80’s when the government backed down some and said that the original owning families could re-occupy their former living spaces but no provisions were made to relocate the other sharing families. Consequently, the government provided a stipend if the families were allowed to remain on site and so it goes until today.

After lunch we do something super-touristy and take a rickshaw ride through the neighborhood. It affords us an opportunity to navigate the extremely narrow streets with less threat to our lives than if we were on foot. It’s pretty gritty on these streets. We actually see a small child defecating in the street being assisted by who I assume is her grandmother. A little too real for my soft, American psyche. We unload from the rickshaw and hop back on Bus #2 to head to the Temple of Heaven.

The temple is now located within a massive park complex of 660 acres. As we approach the area where the temple is located we see many groups of senior citizens engaging in boisterous card games.

The Temple of Heaven is where the emperor offered up prayers and sacrifices for a good harvest through elaborate annual ceremonies. Originally built in 1406, it has been partially restored numerous times due to damage incurred during conflicts like the Opium Wars and the Boxer Rebellion as well as fires from lightning strikes.

There are also large displays of flower sculptures located in the complex. These are made from chrysanthemums. A symbol of nobility, the chrysanthemum is considered one of the “Four Gentelmen” of China along with the plum blossom, orchid and bamboo. All are often seen as themes in Chinese art and poetry.

While heading back to the bus our guide shows us an adult “playground” that is also in the park complex. It is equipped with stretching and gymnastic equipment, walking trails and a labyrinth. It is being well utililzed. Why don’t we have these? Don’t we have an obesity epidemic here??

Are you exhausted yet? We are! Take a nap then come back and finish reading this. It’s off to dinner for us and then to a performance of the Beijing Opera.

This is not your traditional fat Italians singing Verdi. It’s more of a theatrical experience that combines music, dance, mime and kung fu. The vocals sound like what would be reproduced if you took an angry Siamese cat by it’s tail and repeatedly swung it over your head. In fact, the sound the cat makes would be more soothing. I see people in our group nodding off before the curtain is even up. Scenery is minimal which makes the impressive costumes and make up shine. The colors are brilliant and the embroidery is rich and lavish. Still, not interesting enough to keep me from slumber. Suddenly, the gongs in the orchestra are crashing and I am awakened to see our heroine engaged in a kung-fu battle with the villians. She is fighting off a frenzy of spears being thrown at her which she deftly returns to their owners with kicks and thrusts. It’s the best part of the show and has provided enough stimulation to allow me to summon the energy to get back on the bus. We return to our hotel where we collapse in exhaustion. Not to fear! We will be rising extra early tomorrow morning so we can board our bus then climb the Great Wall of China.

The first thing I notice is an acrid smell. At first I think it is the airport. I will soon realize that it’s actually the air that I will be breathing for the next 3 days. The enormous plate glass that comprises the airport walls reveal a sky that is misty and grey. I am unaware that the sky will remain that way for the next 15 days in every part of China.

There is no warm, fuzzy “welcome to China” feeling anywhere. The signs are in both Chinese and English and that is helpful. We will discover that everyone is taught English in school but only some can converse. We are wearing our name tags that identify us as members of our tour group. In the sea of humanity that waits at the arrivals area we see no signs that match our tour name. We are getting a little nervous. Finally, a short Chinese man approaches us and points to our name tags. He indicates that we are to follow him. He could be leading us into human bondage for all we know but we decide to follow him. Sometimes you just have to trust.

The man brings us to our tribe. The clusters of arriving Americans and Canadians will comprise our Sinorama Tour Group. Eventually, we are assigned our new identities. We are Bus Number 2. A melding of 30-odd personalities who will coalesce into a kind of dysfunctional family unit over the course of the next two weeks. We will eat every meal together, walk every step together, see every sight together, laugh together, share our personal stories and generally take care of each other through the organized chaos that is China.

The thirteen hour flight was a marathon but not that bad. I kept it real by comparing it to working one of my usual 12 hour shifts. We upgraded our seats and had plenty of leg room with the bulkhead in front of us. We could stand, sit and Don even considered stretching out on the floor but I envisioned what that carpet must look like under a black light and discouraged him.
We board our chariot ready to roll through China’s historic past, industrious present and hopefully get a glimpse of it’s infinite future. First, we need rest and rejuvenation.

 

Our hotel is more than adequate and we drop our bags. We will discover that whoever does the scheduling for Sinorama runs a very tight ship as we have a full day of sight-seeing planned starting the next morning. We are loaded back onto the bus and for some strange reason we can’t fathom are transported to the Super 8 Motel across the street to have dinner in an adjacent restaurant. This is our first of many Chinese meals in local establishments. Most of these local meals will be very similar. Everything is served family-style on a large lazy susan where you can help yourselves. Hopefully, you have gained proficiency in chopsticks use sometime during your life because these are the only utensils on your place setting. (We find out you can request Western utensils but no one wants to be a wimp and do so.) I discover that Don had been receiving  clandestine instructions in mastering the sticks from our Asian-American school nurse, Mrs. Bowen. He now can hold his own with the best of us. You CAN teach an old dog new tricks!

The next morning dawns grey and misty. Our guide Christina loads us into the bus and we are off to the Summer Palace. The palace is located on the banks of a lake in the area known as ‘the fragrant hills’. It was built around 1749 by the emperor of the Qing (pronounced Ching) Dynasty for his mother, The Dragon Lady. She had, shall we say, a fondness for pearls as she consumed pulverized pearl powder, used it as a cosmetic and was buried in a coffin full of pearls. They say she died at 74 years of age but looked much younger. Her appearance is attributed to her pearl passion. The lake surrounding the palace was used to supply the oysters to maintain her regimen.

Our next stop is Tiananmen Square. This is a high security area and we have to pass through security screening to enter. There is a looming military presence here with guards located throughout the large, open areas. There are also non-uniformed people carrying fire extinguishers also dotting the periphery. I discover that this is to douse anyone who may desire to self immolate in protest. Most familiar to Westerners from the images we’ve seen of the protests held here in 1989 Tiananmen Square houses The Great Hall of the People, The Monument to the People and Chairman Mao’s mausoleum. All concrete, marble and utilitarian it is also not a very inviting place.

We are informed that we will not get to view Chairman Mao’s corpse in his crystal coffin (Aw shucks!) so it’s off to the Forbidden City.

The Forbidden City is the site of the imperial palace for the Ming and Qing dynasties (1420-1912). It is the largest group of ancient preserved wooden structures in the world and contains about 9,000 rooms. Home to the emperor, his court, his wives, concubines and children. It is divided into sections from outer to inner with the innermost housing the imperial gardens.

Think we’ve seen enough today? We’re just warming up. We still have lunch and a rickshaw ride through the Hutong, a visit to The Temple of Heaven and a performance of the Beijing Opera to get through before we get to drop our jet-lagged butts in bed. The local people hustle and bustle through the streets of Beijing. China is no place for the weary. Folks are very stylish here and the pace of the city must keep you thin because I don’t see overweight people. There are 22 million people living in Beijing and this isn’t even the most populous city in China. Traffic is astonishing (this is coming from someone who lived in both the NYC and Washington D.C. areas). There are 5 million registered cars on the road here and probably double that in unregistered, unregulated scooters and bicycles. Lanes and road signs are merely suggestions here. We are holding our breath half the time on our bus because a hair’s breadth is often all that is separating us from the vehicle along side of us. We are told bus drivers here are addressed as “Master” because they must have 10 years driving experience before training with the bus. Scooters and bicycles dart in front of and behind cars and buses in every imaginable direction. We ask our guide, Christina, if there are many traffic fatalities here. She tells us 150,000 per year. She misunderstands us. That’s for the entire country and actually it’s 200,000 when I look it up.

Next: Beijing Part 2
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