The Thailand Tales: episode 3

Creepy yet intriguing banister that’s a dragon’s foot whose toes are heads.

We are headed to the Royal Palace today. The complex also houses the famous Emerald Buddha who sits inside his very own temple. This Buddha image is of a much smaller scale than his reclining cousin. He sits about 2 feet tall and is actually made of a jade-like semi precious stone instead of emerald. Once again, the story goes that he was also encased in plaster and while being moved away from marauders some of the plaster gave way and they saw the green stone underneath it. This Buddha actually has a wardrobe and it changes with the season. He gets gold clothes and lucky for us today is the day he suits up for the season. This is actually a big event and the new King to be will be there officiating at the ceremony. Unfortunately, that means no access to the temple for us so I will only get a glimpse of the Emerald Buddha from a distance.

The clothing change is dictated by the lunar month and since we are experiencing the Super Moon it’s time for the change. In the cool season, (are they kidding me?) Emerald Buddha will be sporting a diamond-studded gold headpiece and a bejeweled gold-fringed shawl. There is a lot of setting up going on as they construct the red carpet raised runway the Crown Prince will trod upon. We do get to climb up onto some of the other structures that flank the temple.

This is as close as I get to see the Emerald Buddha. If you look hard, you may see him deep inside the temple.

Workmen preparing for the ceremony in front of the temple. E.B. is the gold thing in the back.

E. B. in winter attire
courtesy of Wikipedia

The disappointment of not being able to enter the Temple of the Emerald Buddha is a little offset for me when we cross the gate into the actual Grand Palace grounds. The Thai Royal Guard are outside and I just love their gorgeous lilac uniforms.

Thai Royal Guard in formation outside the Grand Palace

Our guide informs us that the Royal Palace was built in the style of Buckingham Palace but the people didn’t like it so they added a Thai-syle top and then everyone was happy.

Buckingham palace
Thai-style

As we negotiate our way across the palace grounds we notice that the throng inside the gates where we are has become decidedly thicker. In fact, we aren’t moving at all. It is then that we notice the street in front of us has been closed. The King’s Guard come to attention and then a ‘present arms’ type of pose. An entourage of black cars enter the street in front of us and pull up to the side of the palace. It seems his Royal Highness has arrived for the ceremony.

Side entrance where the Royal Entourage comes in to the Palace The orange-clad Monks will take part in the ceremony.

The street is once again opened so that everyone can exit the Palace grounds and temple complex area as it is being shut down at noon for the ceremony to begin. Although the recently departed King was much loved by the Thai people the Crown Prince doesn’t seem to ignite as much passion. At least this is the sense I get when I speak with Thai citizens. There is a policy called: Les Majeste in Thailand. It is illegal to defame, insult or threaten the King or Royal Family. This is punishable by up to 15 years in prison and there is no set definition on what constitutes an insult, threat or defamation. When I ask about how the Crown Prince is perceived by outsiders (he’s been married 4 times, banished 4 or 5 of his kids and gave his pet poodle a military rank) they smile and raise their eyebrows. I point out that he has some similarities to our President-elect, which they find hilarious.

Next: On the Waterfront

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