Lee Lee graciously allowing me to sit on her neck.

As you prepare to enter this new year there were a few lessons we were gifted with from our Thailand trip that we’d like to share.

1.  Fear Not

Sit unsecured atop a pachyderm with a propensity for walking in water? Why not!
Float down a river on a half-submerged collection of sticks? Of Course!
Get a tattoo in Bangkok? YOLO!

“Fear Not” appears 365 times in the Bible. I take that as a daily reminder. Once a day go a little out of your comfort zone. Smile at a stranger. (OK, not everyone is crazy enough to ride an elephant with no restraint in a jungle far away from her PPO but you get the drift.)

2. Practice Tolerance

The Thai people coexist peacefully and pleasantly with a wide array of humanity. The country is 95% Buddhist but considers any church, temple, synagogue or mosque a revered and holy place where God dwells. They are respectful of alternative lifestyles and embrace the dignity of all individuals. Although their new monarch has a sordid past, they look optimistically toward their country’s future.

Catholic Church in Bangkok

3. Watch Your Karma

The Monks in Thailand go out each morning with their alms bowl. If the everyday folk don’t contribute, they don’t eat. Consequently, whatever the Monks take in is shared among those who are in their care (think kids whose parents can’t afford to keep them and bring them to the monastery) and also the living things around them: cats, dogs and even the fish in the river.

Cat on the monastery grounds

Catfish in congregation in front of the temple.

To all who travel this amazing journey we call life, Carmageddon wishes you peace, joy and all blessings in this new year.
Happy 2017!

I wouldn’t leave you hanging about the tattoo.

Follow

The grounds of the Summer Palace

This day would be spent in the province of Ayutthaya. The early kingdom of Thailand, then called Siam, was established in the 1300s. We would first visit the grounds of the Bang Pa-In Royal Palace and then move on to the famed ruins of Ayutthaya.

The Palace complex is open to visitors and is only used today for special occasions. It is a beautifully landscaped property and it’s location near the river makes it one of the coolest (as in temperature) places that we were able to visit. There is a strict dress code to enter the palace and it’s even worse than the one at the temples. You must be covered to your ankles and your shoulders cannot be bare. Of course, we were inspected by our guide before leaving our hotel and I was sent back to change having made the mistake of wearing capri pants that were hanging mid-shin. The only full-length pants I had brought with me were jeans and I was not looking forward to plodding on all day in the oppressive Thai heat with them. Nonetheless, I changed and as we were walking toward the gates of the palace I had a startling revelation. There were vendors lining the street leading up to the gate and throngs of women were purchasing these pants and pulling them on over their shorts. I would later learn that these were Thai Elephant pants and are quite possibly the world’s most comfortable thing to wear. Costing anywhere between $1.00 -$4.00 each, depending on your haggling skills, these lightweight trousers revolutionized the rest of the trip for many of us tourists. They flatter every body-type and wherever we went women and hipster guys were sporting them. I came home with 5 pairs.

Typical pair of elephant pants. Found in all colors but black & white most popular and usually have an elephant print motif.

I made the mistake of wearing them on the overseas flight home. They’re as comfortable as pajamas but it was near-freezing and the walk to my car at the Dulles parking lot made it clear that they were more suited to the temperatures of Thailand. But I digress, the palace complex has a few notable structures: the first is the pavilion called The Divine Seat of Personal Freedom (gold building located over Don’s right shoulder on the opening photo) that sits in the middle of a pond. The second is a lookout tower that is very brightly painted and is called Sages’ Lookout.

Lookout tower

The third is the Royal Residence and Throne Room that’s a Chinese-designed building called Heavenly Light.

Heavenly Light

There is also a memorial that was erected after the drowning of an early queen who was pregnant. She and another daughter drowned when the Royal Boat capsized while on the way to the Summer Palace. At the time, it was an offense for any man to touch the queen so no one attempted to rescue her for fear of reprisal. On that pleasant note, we departed the Palace and headed off to the ruins. The city was originally established in the 1300s and was the capitol until the Burmese totally destroyed it in 1767. 35 Kings ruled here during it’s existence and after the destruction the place lay in ruins until 1969 when early restoration efforts began. Things got even better when it was declared a historical park in 1976 and then in 1991 part of that park was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We were given an overview of the city first by viewing a model of what it originally looked like before the destruction and a history lesson by Mr. O. Buddha images (statues) abounded in the city and many wealthy families hid their valuables inside the chest cavities of the Buddha statues. The Burmese figured this out and smashed every Buddha they found looking for treasure.

A reconstructed Buddha

The Wat Mahathat was an ancient temple site in the city. One of the broken Buddha heads was taken up by the roots of tree there and it cradled the head in perfect alignment. It is an amazing site to behold.

The Buddha head at Wat Mahathat.

A closer look.

If you are into energy vibes at all, this place definitely emits a palpable force. It was my favorite part of the whole trip.

Letting it flow

We were able to spend some time actually climbing up onto parts of the ruins giving you a different perspective.

We scurried all over trying to take it all in before we had to return to the bus. We encountered numerous packs of wild dogs who were out lying in the shade of the walls and columns. Like the cats and the fish, they were also care free and had no interest in our coming and goings.

There does not seem to be active restoration ongoing at the site. I can’t help but compare it to the Terra Cotta Warriors site we visited in China, which has a huge, visible project. When I consulted history.com for information, it seems that little has been done by the Thai government outside of some protective ordinances.
We wind up getting lost while trying to find our way to the bus and we hook up with one of our other tour companions who has also lost her spouse. Eventually, we discover the hiding place of the bus before it is supposed to depart. Mr O has to go and literally find our friend’s husband, who it seems was more lost than we.

Although our days have been devoted to excursions, our evenings are free time. We take these opportunities to explore the neighborhoods of Bangkok. Our pedestrian New York City roots have never left us and we prefer to explore on foot, much to the chagrin of the taxi and tuk tuk drivers that line up outside of our hotel and accost us nightly. We did take one taxi ride during a day and the traffic was so horrible we had the driver turn around and take us back. I did enjoy the conversation we struck up with him discussing politics, economics and sak yant tattoos. I do love chatting it up with the locals wherever we go.

Scooter ride? I think not.

One evening we decide to take the trek to the Chinatown section because the seafood there is supposed to be phenomenal and dinner is the one meal of the day that we have on our own. The Chinese traders in Bangkok predate the city as capitol. We venture out from our hotel with our trusty street map and a somewhat vague idea of where Chinatown is located. Once we walk past the huge main train station the crowd thins noticeably and I start to have doubts about our navigation skills.

The supermoon en route to Chinatown

Chinese lantern – we must be getting close.

At Don’s suggestion, we make a turn down one street and then I spot a street sign that I’ve been looking for and then you can hear it.
The numbers of people once again pick up and we pass a row of street vendors, then hit an intersection and there it is. In all it’s crazy glory. It’s what you picture when you hear One Night in Bangkok.

One Night in Bangkok

It’s pure pandemonium! We find a seat at a long communal table located on the curb and a server quickly passes us menus and takes our drink order. We get 2 cold Singhas, the local Thai beer and after settling on our food choices sit back and watch the street scene. This seems to be the epicenter of Bangkok foreign hipster ex-patriot land and we seem to fit right in with the Eurotrash. Our salt-crusted grilled giant Tiger Prawns and spicy noodles studded with crabmeat, calamari and other assorted sea delicacies arrives and we request 2 additional Singhas. Thai street food should come with an advisory, it’s so $%!^@#? good. We inhale the meal and linger over the beers. It’s sticky, humid but who cares? We consider taking a cab back to the hotel but decide the walk will do us good. It does.

Follow

There are 20 temples located along the Chao Phraya River.

Thailand is a nation of rivers. The Chao Phraya is the main river system and there are 5 tributaries that branch tree-like up into Northern Thailand. Bangkok’s being located on the main river was one of the reasons that it was chosen as the capitol. In the 1500s under the Ayutthaya period, a canal-system was created as transportation to shorten the lengths between cities and river settlements. These cities that grew along the river system became the most densely populated regions. Today the canals are still a major source of transportation and irrigation. Bangkok has a thriving industry of river buses, taxis and ferries which are often a much faster alternative to the congested roadways. We spend a significant portion of our travel excursions on the water.

A water taxi

The river boat we are on has to wait for access through a lock and about 5 of these boats clog up the canal entrance awaiting passage. Fortunately, they cut off their motors because the diesel fumes are starting to cause hallucinations. These motors are often rebuilds from trucks that are modified for use in the boats. We have a new guide today. Her name is Kris and she is our river expert. Today we tour Bangkok from the Chao Phraya.

Flower offerings on the front of a longtail boat

Kris informs us that riverfront real estate is Primo in Bangkok. There is no longer any new construction allowed so property passes down through generations. We’re informed that only Thai citizens can own property in Thailand. The houses run the gamut from luxurious to shanty. Most are propped on stilts and you can see the watermarks that provide testimony to the rainy season.

Homes on stilts

Colorful mixed style architecture

It is a hot trip on the river. I made the mistake our first day here in putting on an spf make-up foundation which proceeded to melt down my face. We travel with a small nylon backpack that contains our sunscreen, mosquito-repellent wipes, 2 micro-fiber travel towels which we put to use mopping up sweat and 2 bottles of water each. My cameras and 2 back up power chargers round out our supplies. We see daily life on the river as we pass the locals in their chores of laundry, working on their boats or scooters and other tasks. Most are friendly and smile and wave at us.

Laundry day

statue on a river house deck

There are a number of high rise condos a few streets back from the river affording some nice views. Kris tells us that many of the relocated ex-pats inhabit these. One of our fellow travelers is an organic farmer from California who produces wine grapes and he is also a nut for orchids. These beautiful flowers are endemic here and many houses are adorned with them. He points them out to us.

Orchids

Many homes had statuary on the decks

We approach one of the many temples along the riverside and the waters are almost clogged with the number of large catfish. Like the cats in the Old City, the Monks provide for the fish and most of them are smart enough to stay right there. A few feet downriver are fisherman lazily manning their hooks in the hopes that one of these fish is stupid enough to drift away.

Catfish in congregation in front of the temple.

Our second river excursion was a more in depth exploration of the canals as we headed to the famous floating market. This time we were in a long boat.

Our Captain flying through the canals.

If the Chao Phraya riverbank communities were the big city then the canal dwellers were their country cousins. It was a little reminiscent of when we toured the Louisiana bayous.

Vendor on the way to market

Our guide, Mr. O, happens to be from the village where the floating market is located. He says it’s an agricultural area that is known for producing fruits, vegetables, flowers and coconuts. Mr. O’s family were fruit farmers and he tells us that in the hierarchy of rural farmers the coconut producers were made fun of as being lazy. This is because in Thailand the coconut self-produces and requires very little tending or care. Now that the Westerners are so enamored with coconut oil, it has caused a shift in power. The coconut oil market is thriving here and more land is being relegated to the coconut palm. He takes us to a small local market that is producing coconut sugar and oil the old fashioned way. The coconut water is tapped out then the coconut flesh is removed. This is heated in metal cauldrons and rendered down to produce coconut sugar. (Think the maple candy you get when the sap is running except it tastes like coconut and is not as sweet as you would imagine.) If you continue the rendering you will end up with coconut oil.

Making coconut oil

Mr. O warns us that the floating market has become a huge tourist trap but if we follow a path behind the first part of the market and take it back and across a bridge we will come to the part of the market that is still used by locals. Of course I beat feet right for the authentic part of the market. It’s not a disappointment.

Don buying grilled pork

We descend to the dock which has a large area of tables and chairs. If you see something you want on one of the boats the vendor will place it on an oar and pass it off to you. You then place your money on the oar. Mr. O has given us some market etiquette and told us that prepared food prices are not negotiable but any goods or produce are open for discussion. We sample some savory barbecued pork being grilled on one of the boats and I have what’s being billed as coconut ice cream. It is a delicious frozen concoction of coconut served in half a coconut shell. It is so good, particularly because it’s like 99 degrees out.

A view from the bridge

We have no qualms about eating anything in Thailand, unlike China where our guides specifically told us not to eat any street food. The streets, rivers, canals and malls are our banquet table! It is all delicious, fresh and unbelievably cheap.

The third time we hit the river is a little more up close and personal. We travel to the Kanchanaburi region close to the Myanmar border to visit the area made famous by the Death Railway. During WWII the Japanese were seeking to have a transportation route from Burma to India. They used captured POWs (mostly, Aussie, British and Dutch) to construct the railroad. About 9000 perished under the deplorable and harsh jungle conditions. The Bridge on the River Kwai is a fictionalized story that was a major movie. We were visiting the real bridge and drifted down the river Kwai on a bamboo raft.

Rolling on the River Kwai

The POW cemetery

The Bridge on the River Kwai

Headed down to a floating restaurant.

The final river voyage we took was upscale as we had luncheon on a cruise that took us from the Ayutthaya ruins back down to Bangkok. Big boat, air-condtioned with alcohol. What’s not to love?

Next: Night Life

Follow

Creepy yet intriguing banister that’s a dragon’s foot whose toes are heads.

We are headed to the Royal Palace today. The complex also houses the famous Emerald Buddha who sits inside his very own temple. This Buddha image is of a much smaller scale than his reclining cousin. He sits about 2 feet tall and is actually made of a jade-like semi precious stone instead of emerald. Once again, the story goes that he was also encased in plaster and while being moved away from marauders some of the plaster gave way and they saw the green stone underneath it. This Buddha actually has a wardrobe and it changes with the season. He gets gold clothes and lucky for us today is the day he suits up for the season. This is actually a big event and the new King to be will be there officiating at the ceremony. Unfortunately, that means no access to the temple for us so I will only get a glimpse of the Emerald Buddha from a distance.

The clothing change is dictated by the lunar month and since we are experiencing the Super Moon it’s time for the change. In the cool season, (are they kidding me?) Emerald Buddha will be sporting a diamond-studded gold headpiece and a bejeweled gold-fringed shawl. There is a lot of setting up going on as they construct the red carpet raised runway the Crown Prince will trod upon. We do get to climb up onto some of the other structures that flank the temple.

This is as close as I get to see the Emerald Buddha. If you look hard, you may see him deep inside the temple.

Workmen preparing for the ceremony in front of the temple. E.B. is the gold thing in the back.

E. B. in winter attire
courtesy of Wikipedia

The disappointment of not being able to enter the Temple of the Emerald Buddha is a little offset for me when we cross the gate into the actual Grand Palace grounds. The Thai Royal Guard are outside and I just love their gorgeous lilac uniforms.

Thai Royal Guard in formation outside the Grand Palace

Our guide informs us that the Royal Palace was built in the style of Buckingham Palace but the people didn’t like it so they added a Thai-syle top and then everyone was happy.

Buckingham palace
Thai-style

As we negotiate our way across the palace grounds we notice that the throng inside the gates where we are has become decidedly thicker. In fact, we aren’t moving at all. It is then that we notice the street in front of us has been closed. The King’s Guard come to attention and then a ‘present arms’ type of pose. An entourage of black cars enter the street in front of us and pull up to the side of the palace. It seems his Royal Highness has arrived for the ceremony.

Side entrance where the Royal Entourage comes in to the Palace The orange-clad Monks will take part in the ceremony.

The street is once again opened so that everyone can exit the Palace grounds and temple complex area as it is being shut down at noon for the ceremony to begin. Although the recently departed King was much loved by the Thai people the Crown Prince doesn’t seem to ignite as much passion. At least this is the sense I get when I speak with Thai citizens. There is a policy called: Les Majeste in Thailand. It is illegal to defame, insult or threaten the King or Royal Family. This is punishable by up to 15 years in prison and there is no set definition on what constitutes an insult, threat or defamation. When I ask about how the Crown Prince is perceived by outsiders (he’s been married 4 times, banished 4 or 5 of his kids and gave his pet poodle a military rank) they smile and raise their eyebrows. I point out that he has some similarities to our President-elect, which they find hilarious.

Next: On the Waterfront

Follow

Bangkok was not the first capitol of Thailand. It was established after the fall of Ayutthaya due to its strategic significance on the mouth of the Chao Phraya river. Wat Pho was the main temple complex established by King Rama I in Bangkok. The city section that houses Wat Pho is known as the Old City. This is home to the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, the world-famous Thai Massage School, the largest collection of Buddha images in all of Thailand and the Ordination Hall where Buddhist ceremonies are conducted. It was our destination for the day.

Prior to seeing the golden Buddha, our tour guide told us of his own experience at Wat Pho. It is expected that all Thai Buddhist men become a monk at some point. Our guide decided to fulfill his obligation in his youth and came to be ordained at Wat Pho. He entered the monastic facilities and after 3 weeks of the strict life he was done. He returned home and this is more the norm than choosing to remain at the monastery.

We couldn’t help but notice how many cats there were all over the complex. They were everywhere just sleeping in the shade. Since Wat Pho houses the monastery they are well-fed by the monks. Each day the monks go out with their alms bowls and the people fill them with food and other offerings. Once the monks have fed themselves and anyone who is in their care they feed the living things in their immediate environment.

You may have noticed that in these photos I am dressed in a full-length skirt and a blouse that is covering my shoulders. No, I am not that modest and certainly not in 97 degree heat with 99% humidity! In order to enter temples you have to have your knees and shoulders covered. Our guide would inspect us in the morning and if your attire was not temple-worthy he sent you back to change if your desire was to enter the temple. It was also necessary to remove your shoes before entering so you would grab a plastic bag to carry your shoes in when you went inside.

Shoes in hand you line up to enter the temple.

The enormous reclining Buddha was originally found in another area of Siam (the former name for Thailand). It was covered in plaster and since it was so huge and unique the King wanted it moved to his new capitol city. While in transport, the nose cracked and a piece of the plaster fell off unveiling the gold beneath it. The statue is constructed of brick with a plaster exterior which was covered in gold leaf and then that was covered in plaster during the times when invasions were more common. The figure represents Buddha’s last incarnation and approaching entry into Nirvana. At over 150′ in length it is a most imposing and impressive site.

As if a massive gold Buddha wasn’t enough to look at, his feet are the most interesting part. They are inlaid with mother-of-pearl and are divided into 108 different panels. The panels have images like elephants, tigers, dancers, etc. carved into them and in the center of the soles there is a circle that represents a chakra (energy point).

Buddha toes

Around the periphery of the temple are 108 bronze bowls which people drop coins in to bring them good luck. The monks use this money to maintain the temple. It was pretty cool walking barefoot on the smooth, cool floors and despite the throngs of people when I stepped outside there wasn’t any dirt on the soles of my feet. It was an energizing experience and despite the big time jet lag I was feeling I felt refreshed. Until I went back out in the sun in my long schmata and black blouse.

Follow

The old city complex Bangkok

In May, one of the travel sites that I subscribe to posted a limited deal that had a trip to Thailand. It was a week, airfare, hotel, most meals and one excursion. There were optional excursions that you could also book. We opted for 3 additional excursions. The price was less than $1000 each. How could we NOT go to Thailand?

There were some complications. The overseas flight left from NYC and we had to endure some vaccinations and medications that my physician insisted we take. (I went to China for 2 weeks last year and needed none of these.) I booked the trip before even consulting with Don knowing that I had 24 hours to pay for it. Now all I had to do was sell him on it.

One of the Stone Giants that guard the Old City

Don was sold. I declined to mention the vaccinations and medications up front. We pondered how we would handle the flight from NYC. My sister lives in NY and I could always drive to her house and leave my car. My problem was solved when Jet Blue Airlines offered one way fares to NY from Dulles for $38. I checked to see if the reverse trip was also being offered at this rate. It was, so I booked one-way fares up and down. I couldn’t drive less expensively when you factor in gas, tolls, food and wear and tear on our vehicle.
(Travel tip: I subscribe to Travel Zoo and Airfare Watchdog internet sites. I have a standing look-out for flights from Dulles to NYC (my family) and Dulles to Orlando FL (Don’s family). When something amazing comes along, we book it.)

Our scheduled flight to NYC had a 6:00 am boarding time. We were up and showered when the alert arrived to my phone saying that the flight was delayed until 9:00 am. We started to relax and then another alert hit stating that the plane would actually be leaving at it’s originally scheduled departure time. Fortunately, leaving on a Saturday morning is a good thing in the D. C. Meto area. We sailed to Dulles without problems. Aside from the crazy emails, Jet Blue is a great airline. If you have never flown with them I highly recommend that you do so. Ample leg room, in-flight wifi and entertainment, snacks and drinks. We also received TSA pre-check which lets you go through the security check without having to remove your electronics, liquids, shoes, coats and belts. That is always a welcome addition.

We learned that this is a Chinese buddha saint and not a Thai Buddha image.

Our overseas flight was through China Eastern Airlines. Last year when we went to Beijing we were fortunate to have a relatively empty flight. We had an entire row to ourselves directly in front of the bulkhead. Lots of room to stand, move and stretch out. Not the case this time. This was a full flight. We were able to select our seats and chose a two seat row in the very back right in front of the galley and bathrooms. This left us with room to go behind our seats to stand and move around. Chinese airline food is the worst ever and after they ran out of chicken and rice we were left with pork noodles for dinner. The flight attendant apologized and promised us first pick for breakfast. We were hoping to avoid the horrible Asian breakfast known as congee.  This gruel-like rice porridge was introduced to us during our travels on local Chinese airlines. Fortunately, we were given another breakfast choice. Unfortunately, we missed our connection in Shanghai and they passed us all through Chinese immigration in record time so that we could board our 4 hour connection to Bangkok.

The pool at our hotel
Mandarin Bangkok

We arrived at 2:00 am and were exhausted since neither of us were able to sleep on the flight. Fortunately, our tour guide and bus were waiting for us and it wasn’t long before we hit the contemporary Mandarin Hotel in Bangkok. We were informed that our first excursion would leave at 9:00 am that morning and by the time we got to our rooms it was almost 3:00am. Don was able to fall asleep for a few hours but I had no such luck. We went to breakfast at about 7:30 am. The good news was that this was to be a bus tour that was an overview of the city of Bangkok and we would return by the early afternoon. Despite the Bangkok traffic our tour completed relatively early and we caught a little nap. I felt fortified enough to attempt to figure out how to use the toilet remote control. Our lovely hotel room included a state of the art Japanese style toilet. You need an engineering degree from M.I.T. to work this thing. Hey, my advanced degree is in the sciences. I must explore this in the interest of research. Here is the control panel, now you figure it out.

To he who sits on the throne.

I was unprepared for just how hot Thailand temperatures would feel. This is the start of ‘Winter’ there and the temperatures were in the mid 90s every day. Our tour guide, the adorable Mr. O, informed us that Thailand has 3 seasons: hot (Winter), hotter (the rainy season) and boy, it’s hot (Summer). When you do your research and see that the average daily temperatures would be in the 90s you think: “No big deal. It’s 90s in the summer in Virginia.” What I failed to realize is that in Thailand you are so much closer to the equator so that 90 degrees there feels nothing like 90 degrees in Virginia. Add to that the 97% humidity every day and we were changing clothes twice a day and showering 3 times daily.

Our leader
Mr O

We decided to venture out into the streets of Bangkok after being somewhat reinvigorated by our short nap. Our guides had set up a station in the hotel lobby and provided us with detailed street maps. They had all the main areas of the city marked out in relationship to our hotel and gave us a synopsis of what could be found in each area. The most notable thing so far was that the entire city was mourning the loss of their beloved King Rama IX. Many were clothed entirely in black or had black armbands or ribbons attached to their sleeves. All major buildings were adorned with black and white bunting and their were huge images of the King along the streets, on buildings and fences. The likenesses were always present, they were not just put up after his demise as we had suspected. Mr. O informed us that every Thai household has as it’s major decoration a Buddha image and just below it a portrait of the King.

Memorial tributes to
King Rama IX

Behind Don are mourners lined up to view the King’s body.

We fended off the line of taxicab and tuk tuk drivers outside our hotel and started walking the mile to the MBK Center. We passed several universities along the way and noted that all the students were in uniform. Skirts and white blouses for the females and dress shorts with white shirts for the males and these were college kids. Every student in Thailand wears a uniform from elementary school through the university level.

Students at a Thai school all in uniform.

Upon our arrival at the Ma Boon Khrong Center we were schvitzing like a noodle in hot broth. The air-conditioning is one of the reasons this enormous mall is so popular. That and the fact that it contains 7 floors of small vendor stalls mixed in among large branded shops. It’s goods are super cheap by American standards and haggling is expected. It also houses numerous entertainment venues like movie theaters, karaoke bars, video arcades, escape rooms and tattoo parlors. One of the things it is most famous for is it’s amazing food court. This is what we came for since we had missed lunch and were now hungry for some good eats. When you arrive a hostess hands you what looks like a credit card. When you find something you want to eat from one of the many vendors they will swipe your card when they serve your food. There are also bars there that follow the same procedure. When you’re finished and ready to leave you hand your card to one of the cashiers who totals you up and you pay at the exit. The most difficult thing was deciding what to eat because their were so many delectable choices ranging from Thai, Chinese, Middle Eastern, Korean and Italian. We both went with Tahi favorites: a red curry, beef and vegetables with chili peppers, rice and Tom Yum soup which is a spicy/sour broth with prawns made with stuff like lemongrass, lime, chili peppers and ginger. Add to that 2 beers and 2 Thai iced teas and we had dinner for about $15.
The mile return trip to the hotel helped us walk off that feast and as the sun was going down it was a little cooler. The next morning we had a 9:00 am bus call to head to the old city to visit Wat Pho and the reclining Buddha. Hopefully, I’d be able to sleep tonight.

Follow

In keeping with our typical luck (read: “bad” or “no”) the esteemed ruler of Thailand has died less than one month before we embark on our next epic adventure. The longest sitting monarch in the world completed his 70 year rule on October 13, 2016. The country officially entered a month long period of mourning and the unpopular playboy who is the Crown Prince will be the successor to the beloved King. I have been assured by my travel agent that there have been no changes to our itinerary.

I just hope the military junta that controls the country do not decide to make any changes to our itinerary. I’m practicing my “wai” just in case.

I am also rethinking my wardrobe choices as I understand even the famous Thai sex-trade workers are walking the streets in black. Black is the new orange in Thailand this season.

It would be a shame to cancel our plans at the eleventh hour. Especially since we have already gotten our hepatitis A vaccinations and the lovely 5 day typhoid series. Don asked, “Why didn’t you tell me I would have to go through all of this? I would’ve never agreed to this!” (That is why I did not tell you.)

This weekend I ate nothing but Thai food to prep my gut for the week of street food in which I plan to indulge.

Today my gut is also asking me to reconsider.

To appease Don after all of his inoculations were completed I booked him an excursion to see the famous place where the Bridge on the River Kwai was filmed. I even sprang for the additional death-march for him. Aren’t I a great wife?

To allow him to fully immerse himself in the POW experience, I will be shopping at the floating market while he is digging latrines in the jungle.

In case he has any energy left upon his return from the jungle, I took the liberty of entering him in a local Muy Thai fight.

Of course I wouldn’t want to have him lose face in front of me by getting his ass kicked from some little Thai guy so I will be getting a Sak Yant (tattoo with bamboo) instead of subjecting him to humiliation. I am the best wife ever.

(image by creativeroots.org)

Besides, what kind of adventure doesn’t involve some life-threatening experiences? The Thai flag is red, white and blue. I take that as a good sign.

Follow

I wanna travel with the
Russos!

Have you ever read one of our posts and found yourself saying, “Boy, I wish I could travel with the Russos”?
Of course you have! Now you will have a chance to cross that item off the old bucket list.

If you follow us you are aware that each holiday season we do a weekend trip to Bethlehem, PA. They don’t call it “Christmas City” for nothing. Each year the historic Moravian district puts up and lights over 800 trees, the merchants go overboard decorating their shops to provide an enticing environment and even provide a “live advent calendar”. There are themed walking tours, horse-drawn carriage rides and even a bus tour that have costumed guides telling the story of how the Moravians settled this area back in the 1700’s topping off with a climb up the mountain to see the famous Star of Bethlehem. The historic Hotel Bethlehem has a brass band playing carols in the street and it’s lobby is gorgeous when all dressed up. Find out what the “Putz” is and go see it! The southside arts district provides the LED display that illuminates the Steel Stax, former home of Bethlehem Steel and current home to the amazing Christkindlmarkt. An outdoor marketplace held in 2 huge heated tents, it provides a ton of vendors, a huge food court with all kinds of deliciousness, a stage with ongoing entertainment and an outdoor atrium area that hosts live glassblowing and ice carving exhibitions and live greenery like wreaths and swags.

Hob-knob with homeless musicians!

Chow down on fine food with Don.

Learn what this is

See fine crafts.

The Chriskindlmarkt

If all this wasn’t exciting enough there’s the Sands Casino and their high-end shopping mall! So if you don’t spend enough money in town at the shops and markets you can be like us and make a donation at the Sands. It’s all part of the fun. We may even take you to the famous NY Carnegie Deli located at the Sands. The iconic NYC location is closing at years end so this may be your last chance.

“So tell me Susan, how do I get in on this amazing adventure?” I’m glad to tell you. Send me a message. Let me know you are a fun seeker. Please, no morons. If you can’t behave respectfully in public stay home. We will not cart your inebriated ass all over Bethlehem. Pirates Code applies to the drunks & druggies: “He who falls behind shall be left behind”. However, if you are a somewhat respectable  citizen capable of arriving on time and intact, “welcome”.

“What do I have to do?” You need to get thyself to Bethlehem, PA sometime on the weekend of December 16, 17, 18. We will probably arrive Friday night December 16 and depart sometime Sunday December 18. We will book a block of rooms at a non-hovel hotel somewhere near Bethlehem. We will provide you the opportunity to book one of the rooms by a specific date. You are more than welcome to provide your own accommodations and then just hook up with us. However, we do a lot of pre-festivities at our hotel so you might miss out on some good times. We will set an itinerary that includes trips to browse through town, the Chriskindlemarkt and the Casino. If there is enough interest, we will also do a historic bus tour and maybe 2 restaurant meals. We’ll let you know what’s available and you tell us what interests you. We’ve done all of it before and have no opposition to repeating anything. It’s all good stuff.

“Holy Crap! Of course I’m coming, how do I contact you?” Send me a private message on Facebook if you’re my ‘friend’. Leave a comment or message on our Carmageddon Facebook page or send me an email at: gensavmom@msn.com Serious inquiries only please.

Corned beef on rye

http://bethlehempa.org/visit_christmas.html

Follow

When your birthday just happens to be 9/11 celebrating becomes a touchy subject.

Photo courtesy of my sister.

For several years after the attack I couldn’t celebrate my birthday at all. My family was most gracious and either September 10th or 12th they would recognize it for me. As time passed I realized that the best way I could honor the memory of the event and myself was to feel alive. To truly appreciate with gratitude the fact that I’m still here and another year older. To assist me this year the universe aligned and we decided to celebrate by attending the Maryland Renaissance Festival and the Maryland Seafood Festival in one glorious weekend event!

Kicking off birthday weekend.

The RenFest (as we dorks like to call it) has become an annual Fall event. Becky, Kurt, Don & I decided to check it out one weekend with a trip to Annapolis 8 years ago and the rest is history. The past several years have brought my son Eric and his delightful group of friends as fellow attendees. This year was extra special as the Thiele offspring also graced us with their presence. This weekend happened to be Celtic Weekend. It was also predicted to be sweltering hot. Eric pondered how he could wear the least amount of clothing possible and still dress up. The answer: kilts. He has luckily inherited his Mother’s creative side and early Saturday morning a band of Celtic Warriors emerged from the Homewood Suites.

We arrived a half hour after gates opened and our traditional first stop is O’Shucks Oyster Bar (home of a free beer with each round of oyster shooters you order). A diversion occurred when Eric’s friend Jake decided to try blowing bubbles by dipping your hand into a soap solution and forming a circle with your fingers. Not as easy as the mimes make it look and a source of bawdy comments and hilarity for us.

Blow Jake, blow!

Destination achieved as we settle in at O’Shucks and begin our first round. We are awaiting the arrival of the Thiele kids who shortly thereafter join us when all of a sudden a beautiful princess floats onto the deck accompanied by her hunchbacked henchman. She stands directly in front of our table, bows to us and then recites: “Felicitations on the anniversary of your natal day, dear sister!” Don, Eric, Natalie, Becky and I are momentarily dumbstruck as the realization sets in that this is indeed my sister and brother-in-law! Dawn and Darren woke up at 4:00 am and drove from Long Island to Annapolis. There they dropped their suitcases and changed into costume. They proceeded to the Festival not realizing how big it is and how difficult a task it would be to find us and make their total surprise a success. My brother-in-law spots the oyster bar and recalls that we’ve told them we always have oysters and beer first thing in the morning so they head towards it. My sister then spots Eric and the boys.

Who couldn’t pick these guys out of a line up?

The odds of them actually pulling this off are about 10,000:1. So much has to actually line up perfectly for them to find us. Suppose we decided not to go at the last minute? I am elated and overwhelmed all at the same time which manifests as me screaming like a lunatic. They explain to us how the plot unfolded, we all rejoice and start planning out the day and evening festivities. They are impressed with the size and scope of Maryland’s Festival saying that New York’s is not half the size. They marvel that so many folks are in costume. Their fear was they would arrive and no one else would be dressed up. Not to fear here!

It’s not just us. My whole family is nuts.

Dawn’s face after realizing that she must remain in this hot, velvet dress the rest of the day. Good thing she did Shakespeare In The Park all those years!

We treated Dawn and Darren to all the Festival has to offer. Food, drink, entertainment and the usual debauchery.

The Joust!

Idiots throwing axes

Thieles with Turkey

Obligatory photo op

Celtic Hoard Photo Op

Sights that can only be witnessed at the RenFest.

I got ya turkey leg.

Maniac season pass holder who comes every day dressed as Spiderman and unsuccessfully tries to climb the rock wall.

I don’t even know

The time came when those of us who were more sane decided we needed showers, a meal of substance and a trip to the Maryland Live! Casino.

Becky, Dawn, Darren, Don, myself and Natalie left the Celtic Hoard to revel.

After worshiping at the one-armed bandits and leaving a donation we found Becky and dragged her away from the roulette table. We said our good byes to Darren & Dawn since they were planning on hitting the road early to return to New York. Not much surprises me anymore so their being able to pull one off on me certainly contributed to my ‘feeling alive’ and very loved this weekend. I thank them from the bottom of my heart.

Love them

We returned from the casino and found the Hoard in the hotel bar which was trying to close without incurring the wrath of the Hoard. They were coaxed away with the promise of more alcohol available in our suites. They came upstairs and eventually collapsed into bed. I can assure you that nothing is less pleasant than trying to arouse a hungover Hoard at 8:00 am when the fire alarm is ringing and the announcements are calling for an evacuation. You don’t realize how high 11 stories are until you have to descend them with the threat of the building being on fire!

Fire!

Unhappy Hoard
(Note Jake still in kilt & barefooted)

The all clear sounded and since the Hoard was already awake they decided to go get breakfast. Soon after they departed to return to their clan to reclaim their pet wolf.

My Grand-dog, Nuka.

That left Becky, Don & I to check out and head for the Maryland Seafood Festival. We went last year for my birthday and so enjoyed it that we decided to return again this year. The site is Sandy Point Park in Annapolis in the shadow of the Bay Bridge. A finer selection of seafood offerings, drinks, music, craft vendors, kid’s activities and water sports you’d be hard pressed to find. Thankfully, the day was cooler than when we were at the RenFest.

On the beach

Me & Becky

Each round of eating allowed us to sit down with a new group of people who just were there to enjoy the day. Our batteries certainly were recharged by connecting with our fellow humans getting to dialogue outside in the air next to the water. When we had finally had our fill it was time to head home. Fortunately, the stars continued to align for us as we crossed the Woodrow Wilson Bridge, navigated the beltway and cruised down I-66 without incident. We returned home to find that Darren had done an excellent job keeping the house in order and Damian well cared for over the weekend. The night was topped off when I received phone calls from the elder Russo sons wishing me more ‘felicitations on the anniversary of my natal day’.

Follow

City Hall

In the summer of my 19th year a series of lightning strikes from a passing thunderstorm triggered electrical mishaps that resulted in the New York City Blackout of 1977. Although the lootings made the front page of the local newspapers my Bronx neighborhood responded by hosting a huge unofficial street party. Temperatures inside the tenement apartments on that July night made them uninhabitable so we all took to the streets. My travels this past weekend transcended time as I was brought back to that steamy July night only it was daytime in Philadelphia and the temperature on the asphalt as we pounded the pavement was 111 degrees.

Not in my neighborhood!
(Credit to Tyrone Dukes/NY Times)

It seems fitting that we shared this experience with fellow ex-Bronxites, Reno & Donna Righetti. Reno was Don’s mentor when he first landed on the aircraft carrier which became his home for almost 3 years. A rendezvous in Philly allowed us to reconnect with the Righettis and gave Reno the opportunity to visit the John F. Kennedy. Reno had not seen the ship since his discharge from the Navy which ironically occurred in the Philadelphia Naval Base. The JFK is in dry dock at the Navy Yard.

The friends that schvitz together. . .

Philly street scene that reminded us of our youth in the Bronx. (You had to be there. Bronx homies will totally get this.)

Our hotel was located in the central city area right across from the Convention Center. We laughed as we imagined what the room rates must have been during the Democratic Convention. We decided to take the hike early in the day down to the historic district and try to obtain tickets for the Independence Hall complex. The already sweltering heat had us soaked in sweat by the time we arrived and the air conditioned Visitors Center was a welcome relief. I guess the heat advisory was keeping less intrepid (less stupid?) folks indoors because we were able to gain tickets for immediate access. Imagine our surprise to discover that these buildings from the 1700s also had air conditioned interiors! This building was where both the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution were debated and adopted. It is currently undergoing some roof renovations. The interiors have been furnished with all period authentic furniture and restoration is detail specific down to the actual paint colors. The tour guide we had did an amazing job setting the scene for what it was like to be here during this pivotal time in America’s history. His main point was posed as a question to us: Does government protect or limit our rights? He debated both sides of the argument by illustrating both the British and Colonist point of views. A thought provoking discussion made particularly poignant during an election year.

Imagine wearing wool and sitting in here without a/c arguing about independence.

Senate Chamber

Roof restoration

Upon completion of our tour of the complex we crossed the street to head over to the Liberty Bell. The wait on the street was made slightly more tolerable by the placement of a misting fan. This kept us from dying before getting into the air conditioned building.

The headquarters for the Duck tours was parked outside of the Liberty Bell. A duck tour takes you in an amphibious vehicle that cruises both the streets and river giving you a unique overview of the city. The good things were we were out of the sun, there was a slight breeze on the river and we didn’t have to walk in the heat anymore. The bad thing was there was no air conditioning. The best thing was this guy:

Juan

Juan was our hilariously flamboyant duck tour guide. He had us singing and dancing our way through the sights of Philadelphia. While he complained non-stop about the heat punctuating his displeasure with the clever use of a hand held spritzing fan his antics distracted us from just how hot we were.

On the duck

Damian & Don did not sing nor dance so I had to represent extra.

These were some of the highlights on the duck:

And then there’s this chick:

Crazy Italian tourist who spent the entire tour taking selfies on the bus while missing things like this great wall mural.

When we disembarked from the duck we had to make the trek through the streets back to our hotel since we decided we all needed showers and a rest (& a cocktail). Don plotted us a course that took advantage of walking through buildings that were air conditioned until we were able to reach the Reading Terminal Market. This amazing marketplace occupies the former Reading train shed and developed when the city closed down it’s public open air markets in 1859 due to complaints about traffic congestion and sanitation issues. The market has been featured in major motion pictures and several food related TV shows. I could spend an entire day there. The food purveyors included such well knowns as: DiNic’s Beef & Pork, The Original Turkey, Bassett’s Ice Cream & Termini Bros. Bakery. The most amazing sight I witnessed was the line for Beiler’s Donuts. This Pennsylvania Dutch run operation had a line that extended so far back I had to ask someone what exactly they were standing in line for because I couldn’t see the front. The still warm, freshly baked donuts and fritters are purported to be the best in Philly. I wouldn’t know because I was not about to stand in that line. When I made my way to the counter to see what the fuss was about I decided that I would need to wait that long just to decide what I wanted as the choices seemed infinite.

We returned to our hotel and after wringing out our clothes, showering and changing it was on to dinner. Ralph’s Italian Restaurant has research backing the claim that it is the oldest Italian restaurant in America. This place is still owned and operated by the original family who opened the doors in 1900. It is now housed in an old brownstone that has been it’s location since 1915 with the original subway-tile floors. They have hosted an enormous amount of celebrities from Frank Sinatra to Taylor Swift. We enjoyed an old school Italian menu although my husband’s sauce is still better and he doesn’t overcook the spaghetti. Despite the small flaws we were stuffed after espresso with sambuca and dessert.

You can take the ‘gavones’ out of the Bronx . . .

Sunday morning was a refreshing change since it was only supposed to feel like 105 degrees. The fact is that it felt like 155 dgrees while we were standing on the pier at the Philadelphia Naval Yard. My son Eric says that his father has more pictures of himself with the Kennedy than he does with me. This is sadly, not an exaggeration. It was nice to be able to experience Reno’s reunion. It turns out that Donna was in Spain in the 1970s and was given a tour of an aircraft carrier that happened to be in port by one of the American sailors. Through logical deduction, we discovered that it had to have been The JFK. In the 1980s she would meet and then marry Reno who had left the Mediterranean cruise when his enlistment period had ended. Don was on the ship at the time Donna was taking her tour. It is indeed a small world.

We said our goodbyes as Donna & Reno headed off to Atlantic City. Don & I had to return to work Monday and needed to attend to the life we so enjoy escaping when we travel. The only possible ways we could have enjoyed ourselves more would have been if the temperature was in the 70s and we had taken this tour instead of the duck: (WARNING!! ADULT ONLY CONTENT FROM ONE OF MY FAVORITE TV SHOWS: IT’S ALWAYS SUNNY IN PHILADELPHIA. IF YOU’VE NEVER SEEN THIS SHOW YOU SHOULD WATCH IT.)

Follow